Introduction To Medical Skin Peels

Medical grade chemical peels are dermal therapies used to address a number of skin concerns. 

Chemical peels work to break down proteins within the skin and result in exfoliation of superficial skin cells. They remove damaged or abnormal cells in order to replace them with healthy and more organized cells. Through the stimulation of inflammation deeper in the skin chemical peels can also stimulate new collagen formation resulting in thicker, healthier skin.

Chemical peels can treat a number of common skin concerns as well as maintain the health and balance of the skin when used on a regular basis. The most common indications are:

• Ageing and sun damage
• Acne 
• Acne scarring
• Pigmentation
• Uneven skin tone and texture
• Redness and rosacea
• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Melasma (see dermamelan peel)

We recommend skin preparation prior to undergoing a course of chemical peels. This increases the speed of skin healing, encourages a uniform and even penetration of the peel, decreases the risk of any side effects such as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and also helps the skin get ready for a longer term maintenance regime. 

We recommend 2 weeks of preparations prior to all chemical peels and other dermal therapies. 

Our skin clinicians use a variety of chemical peeling agents and there is no set regime for each concern. We tailor a treatment program to each individual patient which may involve the use of different peels, a combination of peel types per session and differing concentrations and strengths based on your concerns, down time and response to treatment. 

There are three main types of chemical peels categorized according to the depth of treatment – superficial, medium and deep chemical peels. The most common peels are superficial and medium. Deep chemical peels are performed only by a doctor. 

• Superficial Peels: These peels are a ‘lunchtime’ procedure which help to exfoliate the top layers of skin resulting in a lighter, brighter and healthier complexion. They are also excellent at treating acne and congestion when performed at regular intervals. Superficial peels are primarily formulated from AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) such as glycolic, lactic, salicylic, mandelic and kojic acid. The concentration and strength of these peels can be adjusted according to the desired results. Each of these peeling agents has its advantages and disadvantages for certain skin types and conditions. For example, Salicylic acid is excellent for acne and oily skin and lactic acid for dehydrated skin. 
   
• Medium Depth Peels: These peels result in slightly longer down time with more of a ‘peeling’ effect afterwards. These peels include TCA (trichloroacetic acid) and Jessner’s peels which penetrate deeper into the skin and are good for treating sun damage, scarring, acne and fine lines/wrinkles. TCA peels target pigmentation and can stimulate collagen production. There is a slightly longer down time (about 5 days) and less treatments are required. 
   
• Deep Chemical Peels: The only deep chemical peels performed at Youth Lab are higher concentration TCA peels for deep scarring and photo-ageing. A common technique used for deep TCA peels is TCA cross where small droplets of the peeling solution are used to treat severe scarring such as ice pick acne scars. This treatment is only performed by our doctors and a full consultation is required prior to the procedure.

Peels on offer at Youth Lab include the following:

• Glycolic / Lactic / Mandalic: These peels are suitable for most skin types and perfect for gentle skin rejuvenation without any down time. They will exfoliate the skin whist also retaining moisture levels. They can be used to treat congestion, mild acne, sun damage, and mild pigmentation resulting in an overall youthful and glowing appearance.

•  Retinol A-Zyme Peel: The A-zyme peel contains potent anti ageing ingredients, Retinol for its improvement in collagen production, skin structure and reduction in sebum production, and bromelain for its anti-inflammatory properties. The A-zyme peel works to refresh, hydrate and plump the skin with minimal down time. The peel can improve all skin types and treat mild acne and sun damage and result in smoother, more refined skin.

•  Timeless Retinol Peel: This peel contains the anti aging ingredient vitamin A combined with hydrating lactic acid and works to deeply stimulate the skin to visibly reduce the signs of ageing. The peel works to improve pigmentation, decrease congestion, and improve skin tone and texture by increasing cell turnover and collagen production. Regular peels result in long lasting effects and slow down the skin ageing process.

•  Brightening Peel: This is a gentle, all purpose peel which resurfaces and corrects the skin. This peel is a combination of powerful antiageing ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin A and salicylic acid and is packed with antioxidants to help protect the skin. The peel is perfect for improving skin tone and texture resulting in an instantly clearer and brighter complexion. The peel increases skin hydration, reduces congestion and smooths the complexion for a perfect pick me up with minimal down time.

•  Antioxidant Peel: The Blueberry antioxidant peel is an ideal introductory treatment for those who have not had peels before and can prepare the skin before a special event. Combining antioxidant blueberry extracts with hydrating lactic acid the peel is a gentle exfoliant, can correct congested and acne prone skin and increase the moisture levels of the skin. The peel gently removes superficial dead skin cells, revealing the healthy and glowing skin beneath. The end result is skin that is smoother, softer and glowing. The peel is mild enough to use in pregnancy and breastfeeding.  

•  Jessner's Peel: Jessner’s peels are stronger than AHA/BHA peels and are recommended for those with oily, acne prone skin, congestion, enlarged pores and also for the improvement of the signs of ageing such as fine lines and sun damage. The main ingredient in a Jessner’s peel is salicylic acid which penetrates deeply to remove sebum and oil and exfoliate dead skin cells. The end result is smoother, less congested skin with a decreased appearance of pores, pigmentation and fine lines.

• TCA Peel: TCA peels are perfect for improving sun damage, signs of ageing and to minimise pigmentation. TCA stands for trichloroacetic acid which is a mild resurfacing agent. The peel depth can be changed according the the skin condition and desired outcome. The end results is minimised pigmentation, a decrease in wrinkles and lines and a stimulation of new healthy collagen to result in a youthful and vibrant look.

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